BY TRACY GAUDREAU

Oaxaca is a beautiful colonial gem with charming brightly coloured buildings in the historic centre set in a valley of mountains. Unfortunately, the lasting impression that stays with a lot of travelers is: “that city with all the graffi ti.” Its true Oaxaca has become overrun with graffi ti. They are everywhere, buildings, businesses, walls, fences, phones, any free space spray paint fi nds a way of getting there. Some of them advertise the next Banda concert, some declarations of love, a lot of graffi ti especially in Oaxaca are politically driven but that is a whole other article that would span many pages.

There are some that are elaborate works of art. The wall you will fi nd on Jesus Carrenza is an ever changing canvas of mater pieces. Previously you would have been greeted by a monstrous naked woman with a manly face as you entered the street from Porfi rio Diaz.

Beside her was a face painted fi gure, jaw wide open with the city’s name Oaxaca blazed beneath him. Next my personal favourites, a mysterious woman without a face wearing a multi-coloured dress and a girl with a solemn face, eyes closed, in black and white holding an umbrella in the rain with a whimsy dress that curls upwards. Most graffi ti however are just tags (a graffi ti artist’s signature) messy and scribbled, an eye sore on a historic building.

Are Graffi ti works of art or ugly acts of vandalism? This is an ongoing debate. Most people including myself are on the fence about this topic. In my unprofessional opinion, I believe graffi ti on a building are like tattoos on the skin - they can either take away or add to the natural beauty of the canvas. With so many artist and creative minds in and fl ocking to Oaxaca, its no wonder there are so many graffi ti. Everyone is vying for a spot to showcase their work. Alma Rosa Mendoza Rojas, a local art student at Centro de Educacion Artistica Miguel, says that graffi ti art is, “a form of modern expression, very urban. For me it signifi es something like a manifestation of ideas and a little anarchist because the meaning to do it is to do it hidden from the police.” She doesn’t like graffi ti because it is a form of pollution because of the aerosol cans that they use which are harmful to the environment. She does accept however that there are graffi ti that are very chidos (cool).

Alma fi nds other creative ways to express her artistic ability, as I was once a model in an art exhibit put on by her school in the Zocalo where she painted my back to look like a traditional Guelaguetza blouse. Art or teens tagging their names, either way these buildings do belong to someone and as a business owner Edmondo Amaya owner of Don Pimento (a restaurant on Tinoco y Palacios) states that it affects his business having to spend time and money repainting again and again and for bad graffi ti. He believes that the majority of graffi ti is not an art expression but a hobby of people who have nothing else to do. Can there be such a thing as responsible graffi ti?

Could it be allowed in certain places but only if it’s a decent work of art? The gallery called Tinoco y Palacios (on the street of the same name) showcases graffi ti and encourages taggers to put their best work to the test to be criticized or praised by the experts, but so far it has only attracted measly scribbles. Should graffi ti just be in galleries? Wouldn’t that take away from the purpose of it? Its like displaying tattoo designs but never touching a needle to skin. Graffi ti has existed since ancient times with examples going back to ancient Greece, the Roman Empire and even the Mayan site of Tikal in Guatemala. Back then it was curses, magic spells, alphabets, political slogans and famous literary quotes mischievously scrolled on walls, not too different from today. Like a tattoo you can cover it up, try to remove it but graffi ti will always be here especially in Oaxaca, a city of artists and revolutionaries. Love it or hate it, believe it is art or an eyesore, in the end you will have to do what my mother did when she was in her teens and discovered her name tattooed on my dad’s wrist, just learn to live with it.